The chronicles of the Jewish sensitive stomach

A typical conversation at the Friday night dinner table may go something a little like this:

Person A:  Oy, I feel so bloated, my IBS is driving me crazy, I’ll just stick to boiled chicken and water tonight.

Person B: I know what you mean! My son is allergic to peanuts, tree nuts, nectarines, rice, cheese, bread and mandarins. I’m too scared to send him to school in case he develops a reaction from one of the other kids lunches.

Person C: I don’t know what any of you are complaining about. I’ve had Crohns disease for 7 years and just found out last week that I’m also fructose, lactose and gluten intolerant. No challah for me tonight.

Competition amongst Jews is common. Talking about food amongst Jews is even more common (this is starting to sound like an add for MasterCard). Competing over who has more of a food intolerance or gastrointestinal issue combines those two together. Amongst my friends and family, you name it and someone will have it. Coeliac disease, fructose intolerance, lactose intolerance, IBS, nut allergies, ulcerative colitis, yeast intolerance – it certainly keeps things interesting. Lucky for me, my stomach is impervious to majority of foods.

I’ve heard the notion that being Jews, we tend to worry excessively. This worrisome nature can increase indigestion which can cause sensitive stomachs. Then, there is always the concept that we happen to pack in a lot more food then your average Joe Blo with all our holiday festivities and family celebrations. Maybe we are just overusing our gastrointestinal system beyond its capacity, on the other hand it may be due to the restrictions we have around food.

The truth is, I think it all comes down to the fact that we like to talk, we like to analyse everything, and we love to complain.

On a more serious note, Crohns disease, a genetic disorder, happens to be more predominant in Ashkenazic Jews because of our genetic makeup. Apparently its four times more common amongst Jews compared to the rest of the population. So we’re not just being hypochondriacs, there is some scientific basis to our sensitive stomachs.

I’m not quite sure how useful this information is in anyway, but as we prepare our stomachs for milky madness I feel a competition coming about:  Challenge yourself - how much lactose can you handle?

The Seder Plate Food Pyramid

Thousands of years ago the Egyptians were building pyramids. Today, we relive our exodus from Egypt with the help of our Seder plate food pyramid.

The basic Aussie food pyramid (more recently known as the ‘food pie’) is a guideline as to how much we should be eating from each of the various food groups daily. The base of the pyramid is formed by our lovely starch family of breads and cereals, followed by the second layer of fruit and veg. Third in line comes the protein group including meat, fish, chicken, nuts and eggs, and finally at the peak of the pyramid is the ‘extras’ group – oil, chocolate, ice cream, hot chips, alcohol, and so forth.

It would seem that the Hagadah Mavens who created the Seder plate were forward thinkers when it came to nutrition. This traditional plate doesn’t only symbolize our move from slavery to freedom but also represents this pyramid.

At the base of the plate is the ‘breads, cereals and matzah’ group – 3 crunchy matzahs to wet our appetite. Fruit and veg  take a nice chunk out of the plate with bitter herbs, carp-ass and apple contained in the charoset. We then have our protein fix with the shank bone, walnuts and burnt egg. Finally, the red wine in the charoset provides something from the ‘extras’ group. Luckily we don’t have 4 cups of wine on the plate, it would have thrown everything out of balance.

The seder plate even hints to the notion of enjoying small portions. Do not be deceived however, by these bite sized food symbols and the other food restrictions that come along with Pesach. Despite these strict guidelines, our waistlines manage to grow. 


And now to end off with a song:
"Oh yes its Seder night, and the feelings right.."
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1oU9_hy3mA

Sach·lav (sahlab/salep): a starchy, demulcent drug or foodstuff consisting of the dried tubers of certain orchids.

I think I may have overdone it on the Ashkenazi food – times they are a' changing and by changing I mean Sephardi. Judaism is made up of many different sects, with subtle differences between them all. However, Ashkenazi and Sephardi Jews hold unique distinctions throughout their culture, cuisine, and practice– sometimes appearing like two separate religions. Coming from an Ashkenazic background, Sephardic cuisine is foreign to me. Fortunately, my time spent in Israel allowed me the opportunity to enjoy this food culture while attempting to bring some of it home with me. If unsuccessful in the kitchen, at least it remains in the recesses of my memory.

One of my favourite comfort foods (breakfast, dessert or drink? I was never quite sure) that I turned to in times of need in Israel, was Sachlav. It took a while to muster up the courage to try this outlandish beverage, but once I did – I never looked back. Sachlav has a porridge/custard like texture, and is traditionally served from large adorned urns (to keep it hot),  with its signature thickening and fragrant ingredient – ground bulbs of the ‘early purple orchid’ (sahlab in Hebrew and Arabic means ‘orchid’), mixed with hot milk, orange blossom water, cinnamon and vanilla. It is commonly dished up with coconut shreds, chopped pistachios and sultanas. Cheaper versions of the drink use corn starch instead of sachlav powder. One of my many missions in Israel was to discover the best Sachlav in town, and for now the one served at “Tmol Shilshom” in the centre of Jerusalem takes the prize.

A little bit of history:

Sachlav refers to the actual orchid, and the drink. The tubers of the orchid are dried and ground up to create this fragrant flour. An unconventional theory claims that the name ‘sahlab’ is derived from the Arabic expression “hasyu al-tha’lab”, in English – fox testicles, a not-so-subtle depiction of the orchid tubers. Not too kosher. Possibly because of this reason, the orchid has historically been used as an aphrodisiac.  The actual beverage  originated in Turkey and the Middle East, and then went on to England and Germany, prior to the popularity of tea and coffee. Each country has minor differences in their sachlav beverages, while the ground up orchid has also been used in ice creams and desserts.

A Spot of Nutrition:

Before honing in on some of the specific nutritional benefits on sachlav here is a word on hot drinks, and their nutritional value. Benefits of hot drinks are largely psychological, as they give you a few minutes to de-stress in addition to relaxing a sore throat. When drunk alongside a meal, they also force you to slow down your eating, allowing you to eat less and feel full more quickly. I also find that the mere act of holding a hot drink in our hand, brings an instantaneous sensation of calmness and happiness. As a side benefit, many hot drinks contain the magical ingredient of milk – which is great for slipping some calcium into your diet.

Now what about this supernatural orchid you ask?
The root is commonly used in herbal medicine and has been found to restore the body after disease by stimulating its activity. It particularly has been shown to have a curative effect on the common cold and cough, hence is popularity during the winter months.

Point of reference:

Unfortunately it is extremely difficult/illegal to bring sachlav into Australia. If you do want to impress your friends and family – you could always purchase the powdered sachlav mix (made with artificial flavourings) and fabricate a tale that includes you trekking around the Middle Eastern dessert on a hunt to bring home Early Purple Orchids. Make sure you hide the box.

Here is a simple recipe assuming you don’t have any sachlav on you.

Ingredients:

1 1/2 tablespoons Sahlab powder or 2 tablespoons cornstarch

4 cups milk

3 tablespoons sugar, or to taste

2 teaspoons rose or orange-blossom water (optional)

2 tablespoons finely chopped pistachios

Ground cinnamon

Preparation:

Mix the Sahlab powder or cornstarch with a few tablespoons of milk.

Bring the remaining milk to a boil. Pour in the starch mixture, stirring vigorously, so that lumps do not form.

Cook over very low heat, stirring continuously, until the milk thickens (about 10 minutes). Then stir in the sugar and the rose water or orange blossom water, if you so desire.

Serve in cups with the chopped pistachios and cinnamon as garnish. You may also sprinkle grated coconut on top.

Egg: The roundish reproductive body produced by the female of certain animals, as birds and most reptiles, consisting of an ovum and its envelope of albumen, jelly, membranes, egg case, or shell, according to species. Mm..yummy.

A burnt egg.

Oh, how I love the Jewish calendar. One festivity ends, and another one is on its way. While all Jewish holidays seem to be represented by one or two dishes, Pesach has at least 20 different symbolic foods prepared in its honour. Matzah, marror, charoset – they’ve all had their moments of glory. Alas, it is time for the burnt egg to have its turn in the spotlight. Coincidentally this ode to an egg has come at a good time with Easter on the way.

 A little bit of history:

The roasted egg is a feature on the Seder plate, along with its 6 other counterparts. In addition to the Seder plate, the egg  features in a large proportion of Pesach cookery including the well renowned kremselach, egg lockshen, kugels, cakes and ice cream. We would be lost without eggs on Pesach. I remember being told as a child that eggs are a symbol of life continuity because of their round shape and as an egg is given to a family when a child is born and eaten as part of the mourner’s meal. I was also taught that the burnt egg represents the offering (Karban Chagiga) brought in the times of the Temple, while the burning is symbolic of the Temple’s destruction.

Now in my old age, I’ve realized there is a little more to it. An interesting theory I came across is the belief that an un-hatched egg signifies an incomplete religious state. This is similar to the state that the Israelites released from Egypt were in. Although they had their freedom, they weren’t spiritually complete until they received the Torah at Mount Sinai. I’ve added my own interpretation to this – dipping our eggs into salt water adds a bitter taste, corresponding to the ‘incomplete’ state we remain in, despite receiving the Torah thousands of years ago. Come to think of it, I wouldn’t want to be eating a hatched egg, regardless of the religious state I was in. Eggcellent.

A Spot of Nutrition:

The good, the bad, and the ugly?

I always prefer to start with the bad. Because of the high temperatures used in the burning process certain substances, known as ‘polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons’ (or PAHs if you want to avoid that mouthful) and  heterocyclic amines (HAs) are produced, which have been shown to link to cancer. HAs are only produced from cooking meat, so no need to worry about them when it comes to eggs, while small amounts of PAHs are also  found in the environment.

Moving quickly along - and now for the good. Popular belief indicates that eggs are high in cholesterol and therefore we should steer clear of them. Well, the good news is, high amounts of cholesterol in our body don’t tend to come from foods that contain cholesterol (like eggs, liver and seafood). They’re usually a result of genetics or foods that are high in saturated fat, like butter and animal fat. The butter used to fry an egg, would be more of an issue than the egg itself. In fact, eggs should be included as part of a healthy diet. If you’re generally eating a balanced diet, you don’t need to limit the amount of eggs you eat per week unless your GP has told you otherwise.

One large egg has about 6 grams of protein and 3.8 grams of total fat – with 2.5 of these grams coming from healthy monounsaturated fat. Eggs also offer a bonus nutrient – choline – which helps with our brain and memory function. Don’t forget about the Vitamin B12, iron and zinc in eggs, which is great for any vegetarians (sorry vegans) out there, who often find these nutrients difficult to get in.

Try this at your Seder:

This game provides much entertainment at my family Seder. How many times can you put the word ‘egg’ in your sentence? Here’s an eggsample:

“Eggsactly, I eggree. Eggalitarianism is eggstremely important in mans eggsistance” 

Chrein: A Jewish relish made from grated horseradish mixed with chopped beetroot. Served with gefilte fish or cold fried fish.

There are two types of people in this world. Lovers of chrein, who refuse to eat gefilte fish without it, and chrein-haters, who will do anything to avoid touching a chrein-stained plate. The third category that I forgot to mention, is those who have never heard of chrein before and looking at the word, let alone trying to pronounce it, is confusing enough on its own. Out of all the foods and dishes I’ve discussed thus far on this food-fetish blog, the history of chrein has been the most difficult to explore. Maybe it’s just not as well known. Or maybe, as I hinted at before, it’s name just throws people off.

 A little bit of history…

Chrein would be nothing without its gefilte fish. Next time you feel like being romantic, use the phrase: “You are the chrein to my gefilte fish” – this will no doubt tug at some heart strings. Traditionally made from beetroot and horseradish, combining spicy and sweet, this Jewish relish provides some zingy flavour to the otherwise relatively bland and sweet fish. However, chrein has a little more to it, than simply being a great flavour combo with its side kick mr. gefilte.

Horseradish (chrein in Russian) was plentiful and cheap back in the old days.  It was used in relish with everything – from sandwiches, to meat, to fish, although it didn’t quite make it to chocolate cake.

Chrein is the star of the show when it comes to Passover, playing the role of the ‘bitter herb’ (marror), creating many a’ tears in the room. My family has the wonderful tradition of chrein-competitions, by testing eachothers’ endurance on who can consume the most chrein. The result? Red, anguished faces and sorrowful cries of pain. I wonder if anyone has ever compared the tear-inducing power of horseradish vs. onions. 

In Russia, chrein has a notorious place in many idioms, such as “Chrein be with you”. Translated as: “To hell with you”. This alternate meaning of chrein, may be due to the devilish shape of the horseradish root. If you do feel the desire to make your own powerful chrein, take a gander at this recipe: http://www.food.com/recipe/heimishe-chrein-416597 and watch the tears fall. I wonder how it would taste with sushi?

Spot the Nutrition...

Bitterness aside, horseradish has quite a number of nutritional benefits. It falls under the ‘root vegetable’ family and has a great track record of helping reduce the symptoms of sinusitis (a sinus infection) through getting rid of built up mucous. Ironically, attempting to say the word chrein repeatedly can become quite…mucousy.

But wait, there’s more! Horseradish has traditionally been prized for its medicinal healting qualities for centuries. known to act as a natural healer.  Here are some more reasons to chow down on some bitter herbs:

·         The root contains ‘glucosinolates’ that have been shown to reduce the risk of cancer

·          It contains antioxidants that help to relieve aching joints

·         The radish is a natural antibiotic against infection as it increases blood flow to the infected area

·         Appetite stimulant (no wonder we have the ability to eat so much on Friday night and during the Seder)

·         Builds up our immune system

·         These are all in addition to the fact that its virtually fat free, high in fibre, vitamin C, folate, potassium, magnesium… I think you get the picture.

Mixed with beetroot – the combination is even more powerful. I think this seriously healthy ingredient is vital during Passover. After filling up on wine, matzah and salty potatoes, our body is in need of some healing. 

Coffee anyone?

I've gone slightly off the railings with this one - completely unrelated to Jewish cuisine/history/nutrition, but worth a read none the less.

Coffee. Apparently it’s the drink of this generation. If you’re not ‘going out for coffee’ you’re probably grabbing one on the go, or craving some caffeine. I’m not sure if its the taste, the smell, or the sophistication of the drink but either way, following along this train of thought I thought it would be appropriate to comment on the various types of ‘coffee drinkers’ out there. I do have to point out that each coffee drinker category is by no means exclusive. There might be a mixed breed coffee drinker, or an overlap of categories. But without further a due, here are some broad categories I have come up with. You are more than welcome to add in any others you conceive of. 

First up, there's the ‘social’ coffee drinker:

He/she might be going out to catch up with friends over a cup of coffee. Completely uninterested in the type of coffee he orders, a latte or a cappuccino are virtually the same thing. The coffee is merely a tool of something to socialise over. The coffee shop is pretty important in adding to the vibe, but generally it’s also just an accessory. Coffee, coffee shop - who cares, He is just here to chat and  might even order a can of coke if he doesn’t want to feel like an idiot ordering something that sounds Italian and causing in a boxing match in his stomach.

Onto the next: The ‘hardcore-always-on-the-hunt-for-the-ultimate-coffee’ coffee drinker:

He is the definition of a coffee drinker. I would say he is the complete opposite of the ‘social’ coffee drinker. He doesn't need to drink coffee in company - the coffee is the company. There is never a coffee good enough for him, he is always looking for something better, something with a richer, fuller flavour. Usually, the hardcore drinker will have his coffee without any additions - either plain espresso (ie. long black), or possibly a latte when he so desires a little bit of hot milk. He would never opt for iced coffee, frappacinos, or coffee with flavoured syrups. He definitely wouldn't touch instant or decaf coffee, they shouldn’t even fit under the coffee catagory. When he drinks his cup, he savours the flavour slowly and is in complete and utter bliss. He can taste the coffee before he even drinks it just by its aroma. He also analyses the foam (if he drinks it with milk) and the temperature of the beverage. He should probably just open up his own cafe.

** A variation on this one is the drinker who pretends to be an expert, but really can’t tell the different between one cup of coffee to the next.

The ‘regular' coffee drinker:

This fellow needs his daily coffee, and it needs to be exactly the same, from exactly the same café, in exactly the same sized cup. Usually the cafe will be on his way to work, or near his work place. He will usually be in a rush when he orders the coffee, and the cafe staff know his face because he arrives at the same time each day with the same frazzled look - the "I haven’t had my caffeine shot of the day look - give it to me now" kind of look you might be familiar with. He doesn't mind to drink his coffee in company, but usually the coffee is so engrained in this persons’ routine, that he'll be having it on the go, or at his desk. The regular cafe might be a franchise coffee shop, or it might be a quaint little local coffee shop. Usually its the quaint little one. He probably would have a nervous break down when his coffee shop closes - but until that day, you'll see him there...every day...

The ‘I-need-caffeine-in-me-right-now-can't-wait-a-minute’ coffee drinker:

This person doesn’t necessarily appreciate the taste of the coffee he drinks. For him, it’s the caffeine element that holds utmost importance. He might wake up every morning with the announcement “I neeeed a coffee”, and is only satisfied once the caffeine is running through his system. His craving for coffee might be at 3:00pm at work, where the caffeine is vital to get him through the rest of the day. It might be at 1:00am, studying for an exam or finishing off an assignment where the coffee is essential. Whenever it is, he needs the coffee – NOW. He is unable to focus on anything else, other than his brain commanding him to self-caffeinate. Once he drinks the coffee, he is at ease. His face returns to its normal colour. His eyes are no longer bloodshot. And he can resume normal life once more.

The 'I-love-the smell–of- coffee–and-the- coffee-shop-vibe' coffee drinker:

Just for the hell of it, this coffee drinker is a 'she'. She doesn't particularly enjoy drinking coffee. In fact, she never drinks coffee at home, and doesn't covet a coffee machine. Not that she'll admit it, but she only goes to cafes for the atmosphere. She will read all the articles in magazines and the paper about the latest, funky coffee shop to check out. And she will - check it out. Because for her - its about the vibe, the music, the smell of the freshly ground coffee beans, and the people the cafe attracts. You might classify her as a bit of a “social coffee drinker” but for her, the café is an important element to her social activities. Ok, I’ll admit – this is a little reminiscent of myself.

The ‘coffee is water’ coffee drinker:

This guy has no limit with the amount of coffee he drinks. You’ll see him holding a cup of coffee in the morning, in the car, at work, while his eating lunch, at any social event, walking down the street, sitting in a café, on the computer, on the phone and well…pretty much at any opportunity. He probably has one of those keep cups to be environmentally friendly from time to time. But he’ll also use any regular Styrofoam cup, and it is likely he has a slightly musty looking mug that he keeps at his desk. The coffee isn’t usually any fancy variety – it might just be instant or percolated. It might be a cappuccino once or twice a day. It doesn’t really matter. Drinking coffee is second nature to him. Don’t be surprised if he has stained teeth and runs to the toilet all day. You might also choose to call him an addict.

The ‘hot chocolate/mocha/fake’ coffee drinker:

I don’t think this one has the right to say she is going out for ‘coffee’ when in fact, she has never drunk a cup of coffee in her life. She’ll always order the hot chocolate or milkshake, and sometimes a mochacinno if she’s feeling experimental. Noone really notices, because she’ll never instigate the coffee outing. It will always be suggested by someone else, and because she completely despises the taste of coffee – she’ll be forced to order something that looks similar. The truth is, most of the coffee drinkers will be a little envious when they see that little marshmallow bobbing on the top of the hot chocolate, and they have to deal with a burnt, slightly tepid latte.

The ‘instant’ coffee drinker:

She likes her coffee instant. All she needs is a kettle, a jar of instant coffee with a splash of milk and maybe a couple of teaspoons of sugar and she’s good to go. No need for fancy cafes, with their complicated coffee orders. She is happy drinking her one cup of coffee in the morning – made exactly the way she likes it. She’ll offer her friends a cup of coffee when they come over – but they’re usually uninterested. Who drinks instant coffee these days? At least offer coffee from a real coffee machine! She has her usual blend, it might be NESCAFE or maybe an organic variety. She doesn’t mind ordering a cup of coffee once in a while, but in general – instant coffee is the way to go.

So there you go. A brief synopses on the different types of coffee drinkers out there. Of course there are many more. These categories are slight exaggerations of the truth. But I’m sure you could place your friends and yourself in of them.

Ha•man•tasch. [hah-muh n-tahsh, huhm-uh n-, hoo m-A] A small triangular cake often made with yeast and filled with a mixture of poppy seeds and honey with prune paste, prepared especially for the festival of Purim. Plural – Hamantaschen.

The origins of Jewish cookery fall under several categories:

1)     It fits in within the laws of Kashrut

2)     It is associated with countries that were heavily populated by Jews such as Eastern Europe and the Middle East

3)      It is symbolic to a Jewish holiday or celebration

That last category was particularly poignant when I spent the year in Israel. Contrary to living in Melbourne, where you have to remind yourself that a Jewish holiday is around the corner amidst the hum drum of every day life, living in Israel makes it difficult to forget. Throughout the month of any Jewish festival, bakeries and eateries produce en mass, the food relating to that holiday.

Hamentaschen, falling under the last category are eaten once a year on the festival of Purim. Around this time of year in Israel, you cannot avoid the smell of freshly baked Hamenstaschen on the street as you walk past any of the bakeries.

A little bit of history…

I’ve always thought the story of Purim bears semblance to a fairy-tale. There’s the king with his evil advisor ‘Haman’ who has his heart set on annihilating the Jewish nation. The beautiful Queen Esther and her loyal sidekick, Mordechai, heroically come to the rescue while Haman and his wicked sons are defeated. It definitely has the potential to become a Walt Disney Production.

Fast forward more then 2000 years. We are still celebrating this victory with costumes, reading the Book of Esther (which tells the story of Purim), eating festive meals and giving out charity and gifts. Hamentashen are often given as part of the gift, and eaten at the meal. The Hebrew translation of the word is “Oznei Haman” – Hamans ears, symbolizing our enemy. It is also thought that the triangular shape of the Hamentasch represents the three cornered hat Haman sported. Another opinion is that the original word “Montaschen” in German or Yiddish, meaning poppyseed-filled pouches, was later transformed to “Hamantaschen”, associating them with Haman. Finally, the Hamantashen symbolize the miracle that occurred when the Jews were saved from Haman. In contrast to the open miracles that the Jews were usually privileged to witness, the events that occurred on Purim weren’t as obvious. Just like the miracle was “hidden”, the filling is also hidden in the Hamentashen dough.

Spot the Nutrition…

Generally speaking, desserts don’t tend to boast much in terms of nutrition. I thought I’d focus on a few types of fillings in these colourful pockets of fun that are out there.

Poppy:

These are the most traditional versions of Hamentaschen, as poppy seeds are predominant in Eastern Europe, particularly in Germany, Hungary and Poland. Belonging to the family of nuts and seeds, poppy seeds offer protection against heart disease from their high content of essential fatty acids (linonleic and oleic acid). I often think they strongly resemble an army of ants, but they also have a low GI (glycaemic index), keeping your blood sugars level throughout the day.

Jam:

While jam isn’t the most highly recommended spread out there, I would promote using it over butter and margarine. Yes, it’s true that it has a high sugar content (from the fruit and added sugar) but also contains virtually no fat. If you were to compare a tablespoon of butter to a tablespoon of jam, the jam would have half the amount of calories. A homemade jam without added sugar is always a better option than a processed jelly-like jam, but having small amount of it in your hamentaschen isn’t really going to do you much damage.

Chocolate:

Mmm…Chocolate..say no more. But in this case I will. The cocoa in chocolate has been shown to improve our stress levels. A chemical found in the cocoa bean boosts our levels of serotonin, giving us an overall happy, relaxed demeanor. Unfortunately the dark, bitter chocolate with a high percentage of cocoa has a much better effect than the sugar loaded, milk chocolate that most of us love.


What filling do you do?